East into Jordan

You will have to check out the Picasa link (under Pics to the right), which allows me to upload albums from my computer directly for you to view on the web. I’ll still post some pics.


All five volunteers were given seven free days and we chose to explore our neighbor to the east, Jordan. This trip will come in multiple posts.

Thomas, Martin, me, ML, Johannes in Amman

We booked the first three nights of our trip and then figured we would wing it from there on. We left Sunday morning after breakfast. We caught the bus to the border and coming out on the Jordan side I realized “I was not in Kansas anymore”.

The unwritten codes change drastically. The USA is no longer the friend from afar. Here in Israel, while I’ve never really received a joyous reaction from someone after responding that I come from America, a nonchalant demeanor can maybe be considered the best one can receive. In Jordan the people are friendly, however when I answered that I came from America I did not receive the same “Jordan welcomes you”, that the Germans received.

There is so much pride in each citizen for their King. Their sentences start with "My King (does this, or thinks this)...". His picture is up everywhere over the country from billboards to posters and pictures in shops and markets. He came off to me as a leader who looks out for all the people.

We caught a private taxi to Irbid, where we would catch a bus to Amman, the capital city. Jordan has glimpses of an industrialized country but lacks a great infrastructure to push it that little bit further. From what I experienced the public transportation system is a riddle, roads are not well engineered, and housing is still very poor. Many of the houses on the drive to Irbid were unfinished, showing rebar sticking out the top.

Amman amphitheater (big one, there was another smaller one)

Traveling with five guys its tough to find one taxi to fit us comfortably. For the long drives we would take two but for shorter trips we would cram into one. Lucky me, being the biggest I got to sit shotgun.

I don't know if you can see the houses on the hills (back left), but they are there.

In Amman we stayed in a shabby hostel that was quite similar to the poor conditions braved in Tel Aviv a while back. We toured around the city for the first afternoon visiting an old Roman part of the city consisting of two amphitheaters, high stone pillars, and a giant square.

Stone pillars at old Roman city remains

We then hiked up to one of the highest points in the central city where more parts of Roman ruins are preserved. We looked out onto greater Amman. It is huge. You look out over this rolling city and it seems to never end, houses upon houses.

Amman was endless

We hired a private taxi to drive us around to some close places, first being desert castles. As we left the city it quickly turns into desert. We headed east on the only road going that direction. You almost feel like you are on another planet; looking out both windows and seeing only flat red/tan land for as far as the eye can see. It is a very lonely feeling being on this little road out in the middle of nowhere.

Desert

I did not realize how close I was to Iraq, Saudi Arabia, and the other Arab countries until we saw the mileage signs. This road leading east is heavily trafficked by large semi-trucks sometimes with even two trailers. Many goods are made in Saudi Arabia and shipped out to the other Arab nations.





We toured 3 desert castles, the old Roman city Jerash, and the largest Mosque in Jordan in the two days we were driving with the taxi.

The Blue Mosque, Amman (largest Mosque in Jordan)

At each site the locals treated us hospitably. The food was delicious and mostly we ate traditional Bedouin food, or so we were told. Many meals consisting of: pita or another form of fresh, hot baked flatbread, assorted salads (vegetables), hummus, and some grilled meat.

Inside the Blue Mosque.

The ceiling to the Blue Mosque

Over the two days our driver gave us his opinion on many subjects, which is what we wanted from the people we met. It should be no surprise to you that the US has a poor reputation in the Arab nations. It came as no surprise to me, but what I had trouble with was when our driver told me to tell people who I met that I came from some other nation, i.e. Brazil, Australia, Bolivia, maybe in fear of violence, harassment, or higher prices. I was amused at the idea at first, finding it funny, but as the day wore on we were repeatedly asked where we were from. One of the Germans would respond “Germany” and then ML and I would just let them assume we were all from there.

Desert castle in the middle of nowhere

Another desert castle

I never thought I was that strongly attached to being American, aside from the worldwide sport competitions and army troop designations I don’t put much concern into it. This silent act of shunning part of my distinctiveness built up inside me in the pit of my stomach. It is incomprehensible for me that someone would have to deny part of who they are, almost to be ashamed of it, and now maybe I have just a small glimpse of what it’s like to be outside of the safeguard of being a white American. I didn’t last till lunch of the next day before I was replying “and America” after the Germans.

We were invited into the Bedouin at all of the castles tent to drink tea and smoke nagila (tobacco water pipe). It is black tea and is loaded with sugar, the tobacco is on occaision a smooth smoke (didn't know what "smooth smoke" meant until this year) and tastes great