Highs and lows: celebrations and shame

Well there was a lot of buzz about the Presidential election here at the Monastery this past week. I am glad it is over and I no longer need to wait with excitement like a child who has to go to the bathroom.

On Tuesday night Fr. Basilius took the zivis, ML, and me to the Pilgerhouse for drinks to celebrate my birthday (this huge ritzy hotel/guesthouse on our compound about a half-mile away). I am so thankful the Benedictines do not take the vow of poverty, as we drank a couple rounds of Taybeh beer (Oktoberfest beer from West Bank=imported into Israel=expensive), and the monastery picked up the tab.

From Left: Ayla, Me, ML, Johannes, Fr. Basilius, Martin, Thomas


Cold beer, fresh olives, and pretzels that weren't stale

That morning Fr. Basilius had baked brownies, cinnamon & apple muffins, and red pepper & feta cheese muffins to ease the pain of being away from home on a birthday. They were all uber delicious. If this man had not felt the pull to the monastery I think he could be a gourmet chef. The red pepper & feta cheese muffins may sound at first unusual but they were heavenly, somewhat resembling pizza ("Its like pizza baby, its good no matter what!")

Out on my b-day

We have a group of students from Dormition Abbey here. They arrived this past Monday and will stay until Wednesday the 13th. Everyday they go on an excursion around the Galilee area. Two of us must stay here to work while three volunteers can go with. Thursday was my day to go and we visited Megiddo and Mount Tabor.

Me, Martin, and Thomas at Megiddo looking out

Megiddo (English Armageddon) is the site where John proclaimed the last battle on Earth will take place. While nothing pertaining to doomsday has occurred here yet the past is very detailed. Megiddo is the central point of an ancient trade route so much importance was placed on it in the past. Many battles occurred and much blood was shed on this spot. The victors would then tear down the old structures and build new ones or build right on top of them; creating an extensive archaeological mecca: 20 distinct historical periods.


The highlight of this site was seeing a group of African-American tourists laughing, smiling, and talking about the President-elect. I cannot quantify the joy that I experienced as I sparingly heard these elderly women talk about how in their late 70s (I assume) with gray hair they are finally experiencing what America has long said but failed to show: everyone is created equal. I couldn’t help but smile and desperately wanted to talk to them but time and manners would not allow an interruption.

Sunset from Mt Tabor

The high ceiling of The Basilica of the Transfiguration

We then drove to the base of Mt. Tabor, the site of Transfiguration, where some disciples are said to have seen Jesus talking with the Prophets Moses and Elijah. The road to the top is very narrow and similar to the letter S squished on top of itself many times so our bus was not allowed. The walk up is quite easy and full of fantastic vistas. It is not a steep incline and I entertained the possibility of volunteering at this monastery for a week just to be able to run or bike this slope every morning, but thought better of it as Franciscans (a little more masochistic than I prefer) operate the Roman Catholic Monastery at the top. Once you get to the top, the road leads under a large stone arc and down a narrow driveway about 200 yards with tall thin trees on each side leading to the gates of the monastery. It is this picturesque site and made me think of what the road to heaven’s gate may look like.

Looking out at Kvar Tabor from the hike down Tabor

After you enter the grounds there is a plaza in front of the huge Basilica straight ahead of you, rich colorful flower gardens with old stonewalls to your left, and the monastery with a towering clock to your right. Everything is clean and has this precise feeling to it like it is almost a scripted scene from a play.

Israeli choppers flew extremely close as we were hiking down. It was a spectacular sight to hear them and then watch them come out of the sun as it was just above the horizon. Hollywood couldn't have filmed it better.

Sculpture of Jesus in garden at Franciscan monastery

Greek Orthodox Church from a distance on Tabor


Garden at Franciscan Monastery (Tabor)


Stone arc at the beginning of driveway


Driveway of trees

As I walked up to the Basilica and began to take pictures I could not help but overhear some American compatriots talking. Hearing the comforting language I moved closer, but spoke no English words and continued to take pictures with my back to them. I caught them mid-conversation but I could immediately tell I did not want to be there. It was a stark contrast to the conversation that I eavesdropped at Megiddo. They were bluntly racist and oblivious to what character means. It seems to me anachronistic to believe the color of one’s skin may hinder that person’s ability to lead a country. In this case I believe it is the reversal; the color of one’s skin may hinder that person’s ability to be led. Maybe anachronistic isn’t even the correct word because that makes me sound like the thought was acceptable in the past.

Clock tower to Franciscan monastery on Tabor

Basilica of the Transfiguration atop Tabor

I wonder if these people would be saying the same thing in the company of the previous Americans I heard at Megiddo. It only breaks my spirit more to consider the answer is "yes". I have never gone from being so proud to be American to being so ashamed to be one. I thank God that I was the only person close enough to understand what this group was saying. I bit my tongue, as I wanted to say the simple line, “Change is coming”, but thought starting a verbal fight would only leave me more aggravated and give them the fuel to keep thinking these thoughts.

As I leave you think about this: these people who can visit Israel on a tour bus, buy all the souvenirs, carry the newest cameras, and wear expensive watches and clothes must have money to spare. They must have earned their money at a job requiring great responsibility and they most likely posses a college degree at the least. They are people of education and status; they play a vital role in how our country is shaped and how people outside the USA view America. Yet they are ignorant, mean, and have little care in the integrity of a man if he is unlike them. Change can't come quicker.